Before it was cultivated in modern times, Kikyogahara was a barren wilderness devoid of water, covered with dense growths of kaya (sedge grass), susuki (silvergrass), and small pine trees. During the Edo period, the Nakasendō route passed through Kikyogahara, connecting two post towns, Shiojiri-juku and Seba-juku. However, travelers would hastily pass through this desolate landscape.
Shiojiri has a local folklore tradition about foxes (kitsune) that deceive people. It is likely that Kikyogahara was once home to many foxes. As travelers passed through this barren land or as villagers ventured into the area to gather fodder, they may have encountered foxes or experienced feelings of unease, possibly even hallucinations. Over time, these experiences were passed down and evolved into folklore.
Among these tales, the most famous is that of Genba-no-Jō (Genbanojo), an elder fox said to have inhabited Kikyogahara.
Genbanojo and his companions enjoyed mimicking daimyō (feudal lord) processions. They would often imitate these grand parades, marching down the Nakasendō with an air of dignity while chanting, “Shita-ni, shita-ni!”—a formal command instructing bystanders to bow and clear the way.
In the post towns, everyone—from the honjin (main official inn for daimyō ) innkeepers to the stable hands and porters—would line up along the highway to greet them with solemn respect. Yet, just as suddenly as the procession appeared, it would vanish without a trace.
On one occasion, determined not to be deceived again, the townspeople shut their doors and feigned ignorance. However, as fate would have it, this time, it was a real daimyō passing through. The town officials, having failed in their duty, were severely reprimanded—to the extent that their very positions were put at risk.
In 1902 (Meiji 35), the National Railway’s Shinonoi Line was extended from Nagano and Matsumoto to Shinonoi. As a steam locomotive departed Shiojiri and approached Kurihaba, another train appeared to be coming from the opposite direction on the same track. Startled, the locomotive engineer immediately reversed course. However, no train ever passed, no matter how long they waited. Perplexed, they proceeded toward Kurihaba once again, only to see the same train, its smoke billowing, ascending toward them. With no other option, they reversed again—yet, once more, no train followed.
“It must be the work of a fox,” thought the locomotive engineer, and he decisively proceeded for the third time. Although another train seemed to be approaching again, they kept going. Suddenly, a giant black bonze rose up and then vanished with a loud noise. Looking at the railway, they saw that a large, elderly fox had been run over and killed.
The fox enshrined here is the Genba Inari Daimyōjin of Kurihaba, which remains a revered deity of agricultural prosperity, continuing to attract worshippers.
The legend of Genbanojo the Fox, treasured by the local community, has been preserved through a summer festival for residents and has also inspired animated works.
The book Shiojiri-no-Densetsu-to-Minwa (Legends and Folktales of Shiojiri) describes another story.
Going further back in time to the Kamakura period (1182–1333), a gokenin (vassal) of the shogunate named Genbanojo resided in this region as a prominent local figure. At the time, Shinano Province was a directly controlled territory of the Kamakura shogunate, and he is said to have served as a jitō (land steward), responsible for governing and managing the area.
Genbanojo was not merely a samurai; he was the leader of secret agents affiliated with the shogunate, which is why he was reportedly referred to as a “fox” in coded language. His residence was located in what is now present-day Hirooka-Gōbara. The site of his former estate later became Ikenobō (Gōfuku-ji Temple).
